{Previous step: Planning Outfits}

Whether your current wardrobe now only needs few additions or you think you might need to begin replacing your current wardrobe with one that better fits your lifestyle and personality and style, putting together a basic wardrobe that is functional and attractive requires careful planning, but it can and does work.

Two time-tested plans for building a versatile wardrobe from a few basic pieces:

1. The basic seven method.
The basic seven concepts works o the principle of owning 7 basic pieces around which you can build your wardrobe. You will find a list of the basic seven (and some others) below. If you decide to use this method, we advise that you select your own personal basic seven, based on your lifestyle needs. For example, if your work environment is more casual than corporate, you could replace one of the blouses with a good quality white t-shirt. Planning your purchases will ensure that new pieces combine well with items you already own.

2. The cluster or capsule method.
A cluster or capsule wardrobe is a collection of basic pieces that you can mix and match to create lots of different looks. This method can save you a lot of money, because you will need fewer pieces. When creating a capsule wardrobe it is important to remember to keep the capsule in neutral colors that flatter you skin tone and silhouettes that will balance your figure. Buy the best quality that you can afford, you want these pieces to last you several years. Using several groupings of five pieces works well for many people, especially for a travel wardrobe.

Here is a list of  pieces I recommend for a larger plan with an asterisk marking the "basic seven."

Item:	Amount:	Extra information:
Three piece suit (jacket, skirt, pants	One
Blazer or jacket	One*
Basic skirts	One*
Pair of classic trousers	One*
Blouses or shirts	Two*	(at the least)
Dresses	Two*	(LBD and lighter dress for summery events)
Basic Top	Two	(at the least)
Casuals Tousers	One
Pair Jeans	One
Trenchcoat	One	(all weather prefably with removable lining)
Winter coat	One

{Previous step: Planning Outfits}

{Previous step: Closet}

Begin listing the items you plan to keep. I like to use a spreadsheet for this. What I do is, in the first column I list all the items of clothing. In the column behind it I add any extra description needed, like the brand, the material or the shape (bootleg, A-line etc.). In the third column I list whether it is a top, pair of trousers, jeans, skirt etc. In the fourth column I list the color and in fifth, sixth and seventh column I list the activity. So the spreadsheet looks like this:

Item:	Description:	Category:	Color:	Activity1:	Activity 2:	Activity 3:
Light wash denim skirt	A-line	skirt	light blue	Leisure
White button up shirt	GAP	top	white	Work	Church	Dinner / Night out
Black tank	Leather detailing	top	black	Dinner/Night out
Dark wash jeans	straight cut	jeans	dark blue	Weekend	Dinner/Night out
Black blazer	Cotton with satin detailing	outerwear	black	Work	Weekend	Dinner / Night out
Black blazer	Leather elbow patches	outerwear	black	Weekend	Dinner/Night out
Black peeptoes	Patent	shoes	black	Work	Church

Most spreadsheet software offer a filter function that will allow you to filter the list so that you can view it per category, per color or per activity. Most of my clients prefer to use separate tabs within one document for each activity. That way they can see what items they have for that activity. This makes it much easier to plan outfits. 

Be prepared, plan ahead

It's no use having a closet full of clothes and then be stumped for ideas when it's time to get dressed. Let's be honest you don't feel super creative everyday which is why it's good to plan ahead. Collecting street-style and look-book images is great for inspiration, but you also really need a plan based on the actual items in your closet. Using the list above you can select items per activity and put your outfits together. Have fun with it! Start with a key piece like a top or a pair trousers, and add to that saving shoes and accessories for last to complete the look. 

Create your own look-book

Take photo's of the outfits that work. This allows you to see the colors and textures together and the silhouette that they give you as well as create references for future outfits. You might want to consider creating an account on My Style Diary or lookbook.nu. These sites allow you to tag outfits so that you can find them easily later on.  If you're not comfortable with publishing you photo's online, create a folder on your hard drive -say "Outfits" and within that folder you can create sub-folders per activity.

Stay organized
Keeping your closet organized might seem like a no brainer, but it's easier said than done. Especially when space is limited, it is essential. Set aside time, weekly or every 2 two weeks to reorganize. In time, as it becomes a habit, it will get easier. Keep everything in your closet folded and or hanging by color group. Plus make sure that everything is clean, pressed and ready to wear. Trust me, this will really save you a lot of time and frustration.

Let me know how you get on or if you have any questions. Good luck!

{Previous step: Colors}

Begin by taking a long, critical look at what you have. Take everything out of your closet and try it on; check for fit, suitability, design, and color according to your notes. Then sort all garments into three groups:

Group 1 

Clothing that is unusable because it no longer fits you or your lifestyle, is out of date, too worn or faded, is unbecoming or you don't like it, or for whatever other reason. Be realistic; if you haven't worn it for the past 2 years, you are not likely to, so get rid of it. Take it to the thrift shop, give it to charity or, if you must keep it for sentimental reasons, store it away out of sight.

Group 2

Clothing that fits and looks good but needs minor alterations, repairs, or cleaning. This is the "maybe" pile. If an item needs major restyling or alterations, consider this; is it worth your time, and will you really do it? If you haven't finished it within a year, assign it the same fate as Group 1.

Group 3

These are the "keepers" - items you actually wear and can work with to organize your "new" wardrobe. Start by separating them into colors, dividing clothes that have good lines and colors for you from those that don't. Some may not be your "best" colors, but you can use them until ready to replace. Experiment by combining pieces in new and different ways with each other and with accessories. It is often surprising how many outfits you can now coordinate!

If you can coordinate for more than 2 weeks in advance without using the same items, then you've got quite a sizable wardrobe to work with, but is it what you really need? Which brings us to the next step: refer to your activity list and lifestyle chart. Compare the number of garments and outfits against your activities and time spent with each activity. Do you have too many for one activity and not enough for another? Note this for your "needs" list.

Take another look at textures (too many polyesters, not enough silk?); at color (too many neutrals, not enough bright); at personality (too many tailored suits, not enough softness?). You may need more variation. 

I also advise you to take another look at Group 1 and ask yourself why some items were not worn. Maybe you grew out of them, maybe they were mistakes in the first place, but evaluating could keep you from repeating the mistakes.

With your wardrobe now edited, it's the perfect time to organize your closet so that you can find your clothing easily and save a lot of time later on. This is one of my favorite video on organizing your closet from www.askthedecorator.com.

How to Organize a Closet

{Previous step: Colors    |    Next step: Planning Outfits}

{Previous step: Body Types}

Various companies, like Color Me Beautiful, offer color-analysis programs that will help you identify your best colors, but you can learn to do it on your own. Some programs categorize everyone as a "color season," depending on skin, hair, and eye colors and prescribe apparel colors accordingly. Others claim that anyone can wear any color - it's a matter of how and where to wear it and of the person and his or her clothing becoming a total, pleasing color scheme. Both approaches are based on the influences colors have on each other. So either way, it is definitely worthwhile to know and understand color theory.

Generally, hues from the same color family as one's personal coloring will be most flattering. For example yellow, red orange, green, and their neutrals of brown beige will flatter persons with warm coloring, while blues, violets, blue greens, blue reds, and neutrals of gray or black will enhance persons with cool coloring.

A quick and easy way to determine whether your personal coloring is warm (yellow) or cool (blue) is with jewelery. Try on a pair of gold earrings or preferably a gold chain and then try on some silver jewelry. Take pictures of yourself both times and compare the pictures. If your skin has yellow undertones, the gold will be most flattering. If you have blue undertones, the silver will bring color to your face and be most enhancing. The same can be done with swatches of orange and magenta, with orange corresponding to warm (yellow) and magenta to cool (blue)

How does this translate to what your have in your closet? How do you know what colours look good on YOU? You won't know this unless you look at those actual colours. It is time to tackle your wardrobe. Take everything out of your wardrobe and sort by colour. When you've done this, take the pile of clothing in your favorite colour to a full length with lots of natural light. Drape each item around your neck as you would a shawl. Look at the effect of each shade of this colour on your face, your complexion, under-eye circles, eye colour etc. Which colour brightens your face, your eyes etc? Do this for each pile of clothing. Clothing in colors that do not flatter you, that make you look or feel tired or sick, should be discarded immediately. If for what ever reason this is not possible then make a note to replace this item with something similar in a colour that does suit you as soon as possible.

The chart below will help you find your personal coloring in the following descriptions, typical of the major color seasons. You can use it to see which other colors might suit you as well.

{Previous step: Body Types    |    Next step: Closets}

With an hourglass body, the hip and bust are almost of equal size and the waist is narrow. Body fat distribution tends to be around both the upper body and lower body. Women with this body type tend to gain weight in the arms, chest, hips and rear area before other parts, including waist and upper abdomen. The focus here is to maintain balance. What to wear:

Underwear

Tops

Skirts

Jeans & Trousers

Dresses

Coats and jackets

Accessories

Aah... the Pear shape or as Beyonce called it: Bootilicious. The hip measurement is greater than the shoulder/bust measurement. The distribution of fat varies, with fat tending to deposit first in the hips, thighs and bottom area. The focus is of course to balance your proportions and enhance the features you like. What to wear?

Underwear

Tops

Skirts

Jeans & Trousers

Dresses

Coats and jackets

Accessories

The banana or straight body type has a waist measurement that is less than 9 inches smaller than the hips or bust measurement. The body has a relatively high androgen level compared to the estrogen level, and this causes the skeleton to develop in a more masculine pattern and body fat to be distributed predominantly in the abdomen, derrière, chest and face. The banana or straight shaped body are pretty much even from top to bottom, with little to no discrepancy between shoulders, bust, waist and hips. Here are my tips for dressing a straight body.

Underwear

Tops

Skirts

Jeans & Trouser

Dresses

Coats and jackets

Accessories

Underwear

- A proper fitting bra should lift your bust and show your slimmest point just below the bust. With your meausurements now in hand it will be much easier to find the perfect one for you.

- Body stockings and corrective vests with hidden panels will give you an instant tummy tuck and are great for keeping waistlines under control under your clothing

- There are many corrective briefs that will balance out your tummy, but for the best results choose a designs that do not slim the thighs.

Tops

- Empire waist tops will flatter you most, as they are gather at you slimmest point and skim over your stomach.

- Tops should be relatively simple and end at or over the hips. Any higher and it will cut across your widest point and emphasize that.

- If your bust is the piece de resistance, choose wide necked and wrap tops that will show of your décolletage, without giving too much away.

- V-neck tops can create the impression of height and elongate your silhouette.

- Avoid anything with padding in the shoulder.

- Streamline your body shape by wearing tops and bottoms in the same colour or very similar shades.

Skirts

- Skirts in a straight style, with a flare at the hem or an A-line will balance out your curves and create a more streamlined look.

- Choose styles that sit lower on the waist.

- If your are top heavy pockets and pleats will help balance your silhouette.

- Show off your slim legs in shorter styles that will also draw interest to your lower body.

Jeans & Trousers

- Trousers should be straight, wide legged or flared. These styles will balance out the width around your center.

- Opt for flat fronted side fastening trousers to minimize unnecessary bulk.

- Try trousers with pockets, button or other details to create the illusion of wider hips.

- Choose pants with a lower waist to elongate and visually slim your torso.

- A lighter jean with a darker top will balance out your body shape.

- NEVER EVER buy jeans without back pockets, regardless of your body shape or size!

Dresses

- Dresses that fall softly from your bust and have a flared hem to balance out your curves are your best choice.

- Dresses and skirt should be knee length to show off your legs.

Coats and jackets

- Avoid denim jackets or jackets with bulky pockets which will you look larger especially around the bust.

- Try tailored jackets with flare and a simple fastening.

- Avoid jackets and coats that stop at the waist or hips as these will only draw attention to your widest point. Opt for a three quarter length coat instead.

Accessories

- Wedges will show off your slim ankles without making you look top heavy.

- If you are busty avoid bulky scarves and chunky necklaces as these will only draw attention to you bust.

- Go for dangling earrings and long necklaces to add length to the neck.

{Previous step: Figure Assessment} 

Apple shaped women have broader shoulders and bust, and narrower hips. Apple shaped women have (much) higher androgen levels compared to women with other body types. Because of this high androgen level, the skeleton develops in a masculine pattern. Fat is mainly distributed in the abdomen, chest, and face.

Banana or straight (rectangular)

The waist measurement is less than 9 inches smaller than the hips or bust measurement. The body has a relatively high androgen level compared to the estrogen level, and this causes the skeleton to develop in a more masculine pattern and body fat to be distributed predominantly in the abdomen, buttocks, chest and face.

Pear or spoon or bell (triangle upward)

The hip measurement is greater than the bust measurement. The distribution of fat varies, with fat tending to deposit first in the buttocks, hips and thighs. As body fat percentage increases, an increasing proportion of body fat is distributed around the waist and upper abdomen.

Hourglass* shape (triangles opposing,facing in) 

The hip and bust are almost of equal size with a narrow waist. Body fat distribution tends to be around both the upper body and lower body. This body type enlarges the arms, chest, hips and rear before other parts, including waist and upper abdomen. Because of the preference shown to physical symmetry, many celebrities falsely claim hourglass measurements but actually rate closer to a straight figure or apple. *Please let me know if you know of a fruit that has an hourglass shape! :) 

Choose your body type based on your measurements and your visual impression of your body. Click on your specific body type for detailed information on how dress to balance your figure.

{Previous step: Style Types}

A study of over 6,000 women carried out by researchers at the North Carolina State University around 2005 found that only 8% had an ideally proportioned body. Only 8%! This means that not having an ideal body is NORMAL! Do not be fooled into thinking that you either have to loose weight or have plastic surgery to look good! Accepting, loving your body as it is, feeling comfortable in your skin and working with what you have is essential to dressing well. Few of us have a perfectly well-proportioned body, but clothing can help create that illusion.

To judge your proportions you will need nothing more than a full-length mirror, a tape measure and an open mind. Stand in front of a full length mirror, ideally naked, and look at your body carefully. Look at the proportions of your body and how they relate to each other. Look at the length of your neck and the size and shape of your bust, derrière and legs. Use an extra mirror to look at the back as well.

What parts of your body do you like? These are the parts to enhance! What aspects of your figure do you think need to be balanced out? Write these down.

Next you should take your measurements. You don't have to be naked for this, you can wear your underwear. Make a list like the one shown below. Indicate whether you'd like to enhance or balance this part of your body.

Do your measurements reflect what you wrote about your body after looking in the mirror? If not, take another look at yourself in the mirror, but now with your measurements in mind. Do you still see the same figure?

If you'd like to see how your measurements translate to aparal sizes click here and click here if your need to convert your sizes to UK, Continental or any other.

{Previous step: Image}

Classic

The classic type prefers tailored, elegant styles that will remain fashionable for many seasons. Avoiding extremes, her look is simple, structured, very "grown up", yet feminine. Of course Jackie O immediately comes to mind, but I think Kate Middleton or Princess Katherine as she is now known and Anna Wintour is very much the classic ladies too.

Ultra Feminine/"Girly"

The ultra feminine type loves silky, luxurious fabrics that feel and look soft. She also enjoys wearing frills, ruffles, lace and delicate prints. She prefers a more soft flowing silhouettes. 

Sporty

The sporty type is natural and low maintenance. She is the quintessential "jeans and t-shirt" girl. She wears cool, no fuss, practical and comfortable styles and of course the appropriate sportswear for her various outdoor activities. Cameron Diaz is the quintessential sporty woman. When you think of her, you think active, easy, no fuss.

Natural

The natural type likes to have that wholesome look. Her clothing is comfortable and easy, make up is minimal and whether her hair is cropped short, pulled back in a ponytail or loosely laying on the shoulders, it is always no fuss. Kate Moss and Keira Knightley are good examples of natural women.

Dramatic

The dramatic type loves to make a statement with her clothing. She is not afraid to try new styles, bold prints or exotic looks if so inspired. She enjoys unconventional bold jewellery and accessories. Glamazons like Jennifer Lopez and of course Anna Dello Russo come to mind.

What style type are you? Take another look at the images you've collected. Define your style type per lifestyle aspect based on the pictures you've collected for the image exercise. For example; You might prefer the classic style for work and enjoy the dramatic look for a night out with girl friends.

Fill in the style type behind the activity on your lifestyle list. Which style type is listed most? This your dominant style type. This is the style that will influence the other looks. So even though you prefer the more classic look for work, if your dominant style type is dramatic, you will enjoy adding a bold piece of jewellery to add some of that wow factor that you like!

Now that you have a clear picture of your lifestyle and needs, the next step is to think about your image.

{Previous step: Lifestyle Assessment     |    Next step: Style Types}

As an Image Consultant one of the first things I do with my clients is assess their wardrobes. Good wardrobe planning can make the difference between having a closet full of items you love and a closet full of nothing to wear. So for the coming week or so I'm going to share some tips and tricks with you that I use to help my clients create and update their wardrobes.

The perfect wardrobe is not about fashion, it's actually about lifestyle. It's about having enough clothes that are appropriate for your activities - be they social or professional. To create a wardrobe that really works for you, you will have to start by taking a realistic look at your lifestyle. What are the activities at which you spend your time? What is the appropriate attire for those activities? For example: Do you work outside the home? Full time or part time? What is the dress code at your job, is it corporate or casual? 

{Next step: Image}